Six or seven breweries make Saisons. The undisputed classic of the style is Saison Dupont. It comes from an artisanal brewery that is also a working farm (eggs are sold in the ‘executive’ offices!) and produces beers with exquisitely hand-made character, and unruly clumpy yeast. When Saison Dupont first arrived in this country, we had to do quite a bit of explaining about the look of the beer. The brewery has cultured their yeast for taste and aromatic qualities. Because Dupont basically only sells beer from the brewery, they haven't concerned themselves with developing a yeast that travels well. For the uninitiated, the look of the beer is daunting. However, the sweetest rewards await the adventurous.