In the Golden Age of Dutch brewing, before hops were known, brewers used a blend of savory herbs, called “gruit,” to give an exotic accent to their ales. Every brewing town had its own carefully guarded recipe for making gruit beer. The distinctive recipe of Haarlem, which dates to 1407, was so well-loved in the region and important to the livelihood of the town that it was preserved in public records. It is the only traditional recipe for a gruit beer that survives today. Haarlem’s recipe calls for oats, wheat, and barley in the mash, and a gruit of several distinctive herbs.
Koyt is the darker, hardier variation on the basic recipe. It is reddish brown, full flavored, and supremely satisfying. “Koyt” was the name given to the famous gruit beer of Haarlem. The brewery, Jopen, is named after the type of barrel used for beer in the Middle Ages in Holland.
Adriaan is the refreshing, golden amber version of the traditional Haarlem gruit beer. This studied recreation of the original recipe is bottle-conditioned, delightfully brisk, and intriguingly spicy. It is named for an ancient windmill in the center of the town that has been in ruins for centuries. Part of the proceeds from sale of this beer goes toward its restoration.
These are not just great beers, but a piece of history in the bargain. There are no other gruit beers imported in the U.S., but there are a few copies being brewed now in the U.S.
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